Brandy made from smoke-tainted grapes offers hope for growers
The 2019 Cudlee Creek bushfires left Adelaide Hills residents and business in a state of despair when the natural disaster destroyed eighty-seven homes and over 23,000 hectares (56,834 acres) were left in ashes. The fire also moved through Simon Tolley’s vineyard in Woodside; as a result of this catastrophic event he was unable to use his grapes for the production of wine. Instead of harvesting all the remaining fruit, he kept the bunches on the vines and donated them after harvest to the University of Adelaide for research.
The scale of damage of the 2019-2020 bushfires was unprecedented in Australia — in relation to both vineyard damage and smoke taint — and the industry has estimated $665 million dollars’ worth of production and wine revenue was lost that summer. Adelaide-based distiller Hugh Holds devoted his PhD at the School of Agriculture, Food and Wine at the University of Adelaide to researching the effects of climate change on the future of the Australian Brandy production. As a result, he has developed an elegant barrel-aged brandy made with the smoke-tainted fruit from Simon Tolley’s vineyard.
Simon Tolley is a fifth-generation grape-grower, who’s family are deeply rooted in South Australia’s wine-making history. His great-grandfather Douglas Austral Tolley bought the Phoenix Distillery with his brother and business partner in 1888. In the next two decades they branched out into grape-growing, winemaking and soon after were one of the South Australia’s largest producers of port and brandy.
It is hopeful to see that a disastrous event such as a raging bushfire, through blood, sweat and tears, can result into a full-circle moment for Simon. Through the hard efforts of growing grapes through a natural disaster, with the support of the University of Adelaide and the many hours that Hugh Holds put into his PhD studies and crafting this beautiful smoked brandy, we believe we can offer hope to other bush fire-affected grape-growers around Australia and the world. We are collectively showing that a delicious spirit can be made with smoke-affected fruit.
This research was supported by funding from Wine Australia. Wine Australia invests in and manages research, development and extension on behalf of Australia’s grape growers and winemakers and the Australian Government. Not ever before in Australia a brandy made with smoke-tainted grapes has been released and the reviews have been incredible.
Only 400 bottles have been made and we are getting close to selling out. Visit our cellar door today to own a piece of South Australian history.